Lawn types · Bermuda
Bermuda: Oklahoma's workhorse, fed like it means it.
Bermuda is the dominant lawn in Moore, south OKC, and Norman for good reason — it loves our heat, spreads aggressively enough to self-repair, and when properly fed it produces the dense, striped, fairway look this company is named for. It's also the hungriest of the three: a premium Bermuda lawn wants 3.5–4.0 lb of actual nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft per year, delivered across the months it's actually growing.
That's the heart of our 8-visit calendar: pre-emergent in February before crabgrass wakes, feeding ramped through March–June, heat-adjusted iron and potassium in July, a final feed in August, and the October pre-emergent that keeps winter honest. Density is the strategy — thick Bermuda is its own weed control.
Your part: mow low and often (1.5–2.5" rotary; Bermuda tolerates lower with a reel), never removing more than a third of the blade, and water deeply but infrequently — about 1" per week in summer, delivered in one or two soakings, not daily sips. Daily light watering grows shallow roots and nutsedge.
Common questions
Why isn't my Bermuda greening up in spring?
Usually one of three things: soil still cold (Bermuda fully wakes near 65°F soil), scalping too late, or winter weed competition shading the crowns. If it's patchy into May, shade or compaction is the likelier story — Bermuda needs 6+ hours of direct sun.
Can Bermuda handle shade?
Not really — it thins and gives ground to weeds under trees. Heavily shaded yards in our area often do better with fescue in those zones, which is why we categorize every lawn by turf type before treating it.
When should I dethatch or aerate?
Late spring through early summer, once it's fully green and growing hard — that's when it recovers fastest. Aeration helps most on our heavy clay soils.
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