Pre-emergent
The most important application is the one you never see work.
Crabgrass germinates when soil — not air — reaches about 55°F for several consecutive days. In central Oklahoma that window usually opens between late February and mid-March, and once it opens, prevention is over and you're into a season of chasing. Our February application puts the barrier down ahead of it, timed to actual soil temperature rather than a date on a calendar.
The fall application is the one that separates programs: an October pre-emergent stops henbit, chickweed, and annual bluegrass from establishing over winter. Skip it — as most services quietly do — and your "dormant" lawn turns green with weeds by January. Ours is visit 8, every year, standard.
One honest caveat for fescue owners: fall pre-emergent and fall overseeding are mutually exclusive — the barrier stops fescue seed exactly like weed seed. If you overseed, we plan it; the program adjusts per lawn, per year.
Common questions
When is it too late for pre-emergent?
Spring: once soil holds ~55°F+, germination has begun and pre-emergent won't stop what's already sprouted — but a split application can still shorten the season. Joining late? We start with a knockdown and pick the barrier up at the next window.
Does pre-emergent hurt my grass?
No — applied at labeled rates, it works on germinating seeds, not established turf. The one caution is new seed: don't seed into a treated lawn, which is exactly why fescue overseeding gets planned around it.
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